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Richmond Hill 

Garden & Horticultural SocietyBeautifying Richmond Hill since 1914

Gardening Tips

Gardening Tips began in September 2020 as a weekly collaboration with OnRichmondHill.com. Email recommendations for future gardening tips to GardeningTipsRHGHS@gmail.com. 

Society members may click Add Comment following any article, and post comments such as adding more retrospective, agreeing with the contributor, or even suggesting a correction. 

  • June 24, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Thinking of throwing a party on the long weekend this summer?  Maybe you’d like to dress up the deck or patio for this event. Had you thought to do that without growing plants?

    During the last Convention of the Ontario Horticultural Association, six bus tours and 13 garden tours were provided to all the Horticultural Society members who attended. All of these tours were done virtually by professional photographers and videographers. Of interest, were a few gardens that had included non-living flowers and floral arrangements in their gardens and patios. If they had not been pointed out, you would not have known they were not live plants.  One item, in particular, was eye-catching. The owner had not only made paper flowers and greenery for her daughter’s wedding bouquet but then she coated the arrangements and mounted them on a partition specifically built and placed in her garden for such memories. It made a gorgeous wall that looked like it was vertically planted and it added good memories to her beloved garden.

    It brought to mind that one of our members, Judy, decided to do this for her backyard garden and patio. And not only does it allow you to personalize your area, and add memories, but for many of us, it decreases the amount of garden care and weeding required which is helpful given that work can get harder to do as we age or due to illness or surgery. 

    Perhaps this is something you’d want to start now for the upcoming outdoor seasons!

    Judy’s project included planting, painting old planters and furniture, and decorating the backyard deck that had been resurfaced the summer before. The result – a maintenance-free area.  She kept a few live trees, roses, herbs, and planters, and hanging baskets that were of sentimental value. Balance is everything!  The goal: No weeding, no deadheading and no watering. Just take them inside in the Fall and bring them outside again in the next Spring. 

    She chose a nice bright colour palette - turquoise, lime green and pink. She spray-painted most of her old planters and furniture in turquoise and lime green, giving them new life.   A number of the pots already had old, nutrition-lacking dirt in them, perfect for the conversion. Some of the ones that didn’t have dirt got partially filled by placing an old plastic hanging pot in each tipped upside down (with thanks to gardening friends for their donations) and for some pots, she used floral foam to help fill them. She then topped them up with garden soil for the weight and natural look. 

    It took a lot of preparation work but she is quite pleased with it all. And that work is only done once typically although there may be a desire to change colours of the planters and pots every few years! She enjoyed sitting outside having a cup of tea in quiet solitude or a glass of wine in the early evening last year catching up with her daughter.  The latest addition was a birdbath given to her as a birthday present.

    In her own words, Judy says: “My backyard deck garden has blossomed into a very uplifting, calming and happy oasis where my daughter and I can spend a lot of relaxing time isolating during the pandemic. I can’t wait to be able to share it with family and friends!”

    Judy has brought all her pots and hangers out of storage and has placed them on her deck again for another season of relaxing usage.

    Article and photos by Judy Simon. Intro by Doreen Coyne. Both are members of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society.


  • June 17, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    July is but two weeks away and although I’ve always felt July is “weed month”, the number and growth of weeds seems to have started earlier this year.  From now and throughout July is the time (in my mind at least) that weeds grow the most.  I’ve thought of weeds as a nuisance or our garden’s enemy - something we have to go out to attack, pull, dig out, spray, and kill!  Others would agree I’m sure.  But maybe we need to open our minds and consider that they aren't always a problem. 

    They can perform valuable functions in nature acting as soil aerators and providing nutrients and trace minerals to the soil. This is because their roots often go deep breaking up the soil – even clay and releasing their nutrients and minerals into that newly aerated soil.  They also protect the soil. They’ll grow on any open area for survival; and in doing so, they protect the exposed topsoil. Without them, many open spaces would be robbed of topsoil by sun, rain, and wind. In south-western Ontario, you’ll see many farmers planting rye in the fall on their acreage to help keep their topsoil in place. Rye grows quickly and thickly, holding the soil in place. I’ve used it many times to help start a new lawn.

    When you need to rid your garden or lawn of weeds try following these guidelines:

    • Cultivate weeds as soon as they appear.  Don't wait until they are firmly rooted. What does it mean to “cultivate a weed”? Cultivating is a combination of two things, removing weeds from the garden and loosening the soil to improve the retention and penetration of air, water, and nutrients. Both are accomplished at the same time.
    • It's best to weed after a good rain when the soil is softer and the roots are less likely to resist your pulling. One of the gardeners I hired a few years ago while my knee replacement was healing, watered all the weeded areas for 30 minutes before she worked that area given it made the soil easier to work.
    • Note that tugging out weeds by the roots is thought to excite their roots into additional growth.
    • Weeds with a long taproot such as Queen Anne's lace or dandelions go deep down into the soil and bring up minerals into the soil.  Once the plant is cut off or turned under, these minerals feed the soil near the surface.  Note the mention of “cut off” (at ground level) not “pulled out”.
    • Take care to cut off weeds for mulch before they go to seed. Putting weed seeds into your compost will only multiply the number of weeds in your garden after using that compost.
    • Cut off the tops of weeds and let them lay fallow in rows. This should help them break down more quickly so you can put them into your compost or simply leave them where they are to provide compost to the surrounding plants. Weeds without seeds benefit your compost heap as they are full of nutrients including valuable trace minerals.
    • Weeds act as conditioners to your soil. Their roots make channels through your soil. Earthworms can travel through those channels aerating the soil as they go.
    • For your lawn, I’m told by friends that throwing down extra grass seed will help smother the weeds as more, thicker grass grows. A good method is to rake some compost into the lawn and then sprinkle grass seed on top of it just before it rains. The growing grass can help choke out weeds!
    • To avoid weeds, perhaps this friend’s antidote will help.  She decided to grow edible weeds given she already had lots growing in her garden that she had been weeding out. Having decided to make them a main in her menus, she tended them, cared for them, and harvested them.  But once she started harvesting them to eat, she soon discovered they were no longer growing at all. No problem. No weeds. And then she went back to planting regular vegetables and herbs!

    So try not to frown when you look out in July and see the weeds coming.  Take a proactive approach which means less work each time. And cut them off as opposed to pulling them out. And if you use a Dutch hoe for that purpose, there is much less, if any, bending and thus less back pain!

    Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

  • June 10, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Last spring my husband excitedly told me that our cottage neighbour, an eighty-year-old Korean man, gave him some pig potatoes to plant.  Hmmm.  I had never heard of pig potatoes. I googled “pig potatoes” and I couldn’t find anything.  It took a lot of coaxing for me to plant these things for several reasons. I didn’t have a lot of room in my cottage garden.  The garden needs to be fenced to keep the deer out. And I don’t eat potatoes.

    But in late May I planted them. They started to grow.  Nineteen of them!  And they grew and grew. I had to tie them to the deck railing. They didn’t look like potatoes.  A friend visited the cottage with his father and an older Chinese man who loved to garden.  He was excited to see them. He knew what they were.  But there was not a good English translation.  Something like ‘chokes’!!??

    I thought I recognized the plant.  Sunflowers?  My google search this time came up with Jerusalem Artichokes, which are a type of sunflower! H
    elianthus tuberosus.

    So, how did it get called a Jerusalem artichoke? Well, the Italian gardeners who first settle here called it a sunflower or girasole.  If you slur your speech, “Girasole” ended up sounding like “Jerusalem”.  The artichoke part of its name comes from the taste! 

    In the first week of November, I harvested them.

    Newly harvested pig potatoes

    I was pleased that they washed up well and would not require peeling.  They are to be stored in a cool dry place.  

    What am I to do with this harvest! Back to Google. I have added it to soups. And I will try roasting some.

    I left a few in the ground for next year.  My Korean neighbour has warned me that they will spread and I may want to put a below-ground barrier between them and the rest of the garden.

    This plant has an interesting history.  It had been taken to Europe and cultivated there. It gradually fell into obscurity in North America. It is regarded as a nuisance for cash crops. Indigenous chefs have been including them in their cuisine, referring to them as sunchokes.  They are also called sunroot, wild sunflower, topinambur, or earth apple.

    So why would my cottage neighbour refer to them as pig potatoes?  These tubers do not contain starch, as do the typical potato.  Starch cannot easily be digested by pigs. These tubers contain inulin (not insulin) not starch and hence can be eaten by pigs! Thus – potato-like food for pigs!

    Oh, if you eat a lot of them the inulin may cause gas, hence another nickname – “fartachokes”.  If you see these anywhere to buy, you may you want to plant them now.  Just don’t eat a lot at a time.

    Other interesting articles on Jerusalem Artichokes:

    Submitted by Marj Andre, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

  • June 03, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Are you fed up with floppy flowers?  Are you disappointed when your delphiniums fall sideways?  Perhaps it is time to think about plant supports rather than waiting until the peonies are dashed to the ground in a sudden heavy downpour.

    Place the peony rings around the plant when the first deep-red shoots emerge from the ground in spring.  For finer foliaged plants there are metal rings with a grid across and with three or four legs. These give good support as the plant grows.

    Homemade half domes of chicken wire serve to gather in the floppy growth of some shorter favourites such as perennial geraniums and should be in place over the emerging plant early in spring.

    Buy a large bundle of the longest bamboo stakes you can find (they can always be cut to size) preferably stained dark green or black so that they will disappear among the foliage and along with the stakes get a good big ball of garden twine. Don’t buy the straw-coloured ones; again, try to find a dull green colour.  If you are looking for a present for a gardener in early spring there could be nothing more likely to bring a smile to their face than these two items.

    Use several stakes around and even in among the plant, so that the twine may be woven through and not merely “cinched around the waist” of the plant, a very unnatural and rather amateurish look.  Support your plant as naturally as possible.

    When staking delphiniums, be sure to use stakes long enough to support not only the flowering stem but also to extend alongside the flower itself; it is sad to be left with tall standing stalks topped with broken-off flowers.  

    When you are pruning branching shrubs keep the twiggy bits – which some call “pea sticks”.  They are great poked in amongst lax growing plants which will grow to cover them from view.  Should you have thrown out your twigs, keep an eye on what the neighbours might put out on your garden refuse day!

    Certain tall later flowering plants will benefit from the “Chelsea chop” - the removal of about a third of their height. This is done before the bud set, around the time of that British flower show, at the end of May or the very beginning of June.  Growth will be sturdier (less staking) and flowering somewhat delayed.  The cut may be of the whole plant or sections so that the blooms will be staggered.  Summer phlox, yarrows and asters are good candidates.

    Submitted by Jennifer Wingate, a member of Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society


  • May 27, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    When building our raised garden beds five years ago, we decided on untreated wood planks for the sides to avoid the chemicals found in treated wood. They work just as well as treated wood. In late April as we began preparing the garden beds for the spring planting, I noticed the insides of the 8X4 planks were beginning to deteriorate. This is natural as they have sat in water and soil for so long.  And given they’ve worked so hard for our gardens, I wanted to extend their usage.

    I decided to line them with industrial-grade garbage bags, stapling them all around, but letting the bottom stay open for drainage.  A Pond liner can also work but can be more expensive.  This treatment will keep the planks going for a few more years.  And given the cost of wood these days, that’s a really good thing!  The black lining will also absorb heat so that the soil will be warmer, helping the vegetables grow when I plant them in my newly transformed raised beds.

    Article by Rahe Richards, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society


  • May 20, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    As we prep our gardens this spring, we also need to think about our soil and our lawns.  Below you’ll find ways to enrich your soil before you plant your veggies and flowers; as well as some quick tips for your lawn.


    SOD: Recycle sod to repair winter-damaged spots on your lawn.  Simply remove the damaged turf, aerate the soil, and press new soil into the empty place. Water the area well until it is established.  In one tricky spot in my garden, I had a row of sod that never took and the area was a bit low compared to the surrounding area. So, in the spring, we took the dead sod and turned it upside down and added some topsoil and new sod on top. During the summer the dead sod started to decompose into humus-rich soil and the new sod is doing well and matches the level of the rest of the lawn!

    I’ve already fertilized my lawn by spreading a very thin layer of worm compost over it. You can use another type of compost but I find the worm compost very good for both lawns and gardens.  Next, I need to add a little weed killer in certain areas and overall I want to add some good topsoil in areas that are a bit “low” with some additional lawn seed mixed in.   BTW: We’ll talk about how and when to do grub control in another article! But while you plant, take note now if you see grubs.


    SOIL: To get the best soil let nature do what nature is supposed to do – compost dead leaves, garden waste (no weed seeds), and food waste – then do what you have to do to be a good steward to the soil – add the composted material and fertilizer as needed to your soil. Good soil should have these elements: oxygen, silicon, aluminum, iron, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and sodium. It should also have decreasing volumes of trace elements which are important. The texture of the soil is due to the size of the mineral particles in it. 

    SOIL TYPES:
    There are a few main soil types:
    - Heavy Clay soil: holds its shape when wet

    - Sandy soil: does not hold its shape when wet and the drainage is fast sometimes too fast for plants to grab the nutrients they need
    - Silty soil: powdery, doesn't crumble but it has lots of minerals in it

    The proportion of sand, silt, and clay determines what kind of soil you have.

    If there is too much clay, your soil will be dry, dense, and hard to work with. We seem to have a lot of that in Richmond Hill.  In part that is due to builders who remove the thick layer of topsoil before they build new houses, then replace only a few inches of it when the build is complete. A great second revenue source as people are also looking for good topsoil to add to their soon-to-be lawns and gardens.  Clay does have a good amount of nutrients. So, if you are like me and have a lot of clay just be prepared to add lots of compost, leaf mould, and manure to the surface for many years. This can work for lawns as well but of course, you can cover the lawn with new compost – perhaps a few millimetres each spring. With your efforts, the soil will slowly become more workable.

    If there is so much sand in your soil that it drains faster than most plants can absorb it, then you’ll need to add compost to the surface of the soil. This will encourage earthworms who will then follow channels in the ground made by the roots of your plants and thus aerate the soil. The internal paths in the soil will also make it more moisture-retentive because the worms leave behind a slime that is produced by their bodies that helps all the little particles in the soil adhere to each other.

    Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

    References:
    -   
    Most of my techniques are based on what my Dad taught me decades ago.
    -   
    Mark Cullen on Lawns and Gardens:  http://markcullen.com/our-6-tips-to-the-perfect-lawn-and-garden/
    -   I recall Robert Pavlis did a talk at our Horticultural Society in 2020 on Soil and Fertilizer that was welled received.  You’ll find some videos by him if you Google: “Robert Pavlis on soil and fertilizer”

  • May 13, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Things to consider before you head out to your gardens to plant seedlings!

    PLANT EARLIER IN PROTECTED AREAS: If you have protected areas of your garden – say it is surrounded by large trees or shrubs or has perennials around the garden’s edges protecting lower-lying plants. This may protect new plants that you grow in the protected area allowing you to plant a little earlier (1 to 2 weeks) than in other parts of your garden where the harsh winds may blow through the early part of May.  

    HOLE SIZE:  When planting seedlings – large or small - always dig a bigger hole than seems necessary for your plant. Make the hole wider than the size of the pot it is in, but no need to make it deeper than that pot. You can tap or squeeze the sides of the pot to release it.  You may want to consider trying to loosen its roots if they are tightly bound together.  But before you place the seedling into the ground, we need to test the drainage of the soil.  See below.  Once the soil is ready, then place the plant into the soiling adding more around the plant as needed and ensuring its above-ground body is still at ground level.

    DRAINAGE:  Once you pour some water into the hole you’ve made for this plant, watch how fast the water drains away. If it drains quickly then it may not stay near your plants’ roots long enough for them to absorb the water and needed nutrients. In this case, you will need to amend the soil by adding compost and manure to what is already there. When amending the soil, you may need to dig slightly deeper to ensure there is sufficient room for the plant given the compost you’ll be adding.  Once you’ve planted the seedlings, you may also want to “top dress” the ground around the plants which many feel will allow the plants to settle immediately in your conditioned soil.

    On the other hand, if there is very little drainage and the water puddles, then your plants’ roots may root.  In this case, you should really dig up the whole area and amend the soil to correct the drainage.  To amend really poor soil, you should remove some of that earth then add both compost and manure in the entire area you’ve dug up. Again, top dressing the soil is useful as well. More manure on the surface of the soil means the soil is going to be fed and worms are going to work their way around the plants to pull in leaf mould which will further breakdown and feed the plant as its roots grow deeper

    WATERING:  It is still recommended that you water a plant well for the first few weeks until you see new growth beginning.  At that point, you can reduce watering to what's normal for that area of the garden and for that plant.

    Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

    References:
    Friends and other members of our Horticultural Society
    -
     "Favourite Gardening Tips” by Marjorie Harris

  • May 06, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    It’s time to ensure that you are ready to plant later this month!  So, I have gathered several tips for you.  Some came from friends, others from club members, and a few from an older book titled “Favourite Gardening Tips” by Marjorie Harris. Hope you can use them when you start to plant.

    HELP WITH GERMINATION: Jennifer reminds us that for good germination of parsley seeds you need to pour boiling water over the seeds after you place them in the ground. Once done, you can cover the trench with soil.

    WATERING:  It is recommended that you water a plant well for the first few weeks until you see new growth beginning.  At that point, you can reduce watering to what's normal for that area of your garden and for that plant.

    PLANTING ROWS OF SEEDS:  Rather than staking each row and measuring out the spacing required for planting seeds, try this idea.  Get a few bamboo poles which of course, are usually evenly notched with rings along their length.  You could even mark them with permanent marker if you want to be sure of the spacing.  These are readily available at Canadian Tire, Walmart, Amazon, garden centres and nurseries.  Lay down the long bamboo pole on the ground in the garden where you want to plant a row of seeds and press it into the soil.  The impression it leaves makes a perfect planting guide.  If you  want to be fancy, you could drill a hole the size of your larger seeds every inch or two along the length of your bamboo. Better yet, check how far apart your seeds should be to decide how far apart to make the holes.  Now after putting the stick down and pressing on it, you simply put a seed in every hole or every other one, depending on your required spacing for a specific seed. Now lift the bamboo stick and do the next row. Or having outlined the hole, simply place a seed along the length of the row.

    PLANTING TINY SEEDS:  Seeds such as lettuce and carrots are so small it is easier to simply wet a piece of cotton string or needlepoint thread then drag it through the seeds. The seeds will stick to string and you can place the string right in the planting row.  Cover the row with the  amount of soil specified on the seed packet. Done.

    PLANTING RADISHES:  My dad always had me plant radishes in a two foot square area. He’d say, “Take a small palmful of seed and then scatter those seeds with your fingers throughout the square”. As they grew and were harvested, a few didn’t make it and a few had to be pulled to let others grow.  But it was quick.  After most were harvested, you could reseed the area for a second and even a third harvest during the summer.  And did you know that radishes taste delicious roasted with other root vegetables! Try it. I typically roast mine with parsnips, brussel sprouts, carrots, and a few mini potatoes.  Roasting them changes their taste but they are simply great to eat that way. You can also freeze radishes in a few easy steps. Wash them, scrubbing off all the dirt, then slice thinly or in wedges. Place those in a large pot of boiling water, blanching them for 2–3 minutes. Cool them in an ice bath, then place in freezer bags or containers removing most of the excess water and air.

    FLOWERS: Many flowers can also be started as seeds in the ground. I’ve planted nasturtiums that way and they’ve grown well.  Indeed in the fall, when they “go to seed”, I now simply shake their heads to disperse those seeds in the soil for next year. Other flowers that can be planted as seeds outdoors later this month include: pansies, violas, marigolds, sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, and four o'clocks.

    Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

  • April 29, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    Recently, I received a gift certificate for Lee Valley which led me to start looking at their website to see what they had available.  What a great time I had looking over all the tools one could buy for gardening.  Of course, I already had a few on hand but I found some new items (at least they were new to me) that I could take advantage of.

    Most of us have some commonly used tools like a garden hose, a spray nozzle for the hose, a garden rake, etc.  I even had a set of handheld tools which were very affordable but which also seemed to break every year or two – at least when I used them.  The set included a rounded trowel, a transplanter, and a cultivator which looked like a small rake.  I’ll be replacing them with more durable, higher-quality versions.  Below is a list of tools that I find most helpful while gardening including those that after reading about them and asking friends if they used them, I now want to buy.

    Long-handled Watering Wand  
    Get one that is made of a sturdy aluminum wand that will last. It also needs a good trigger valve that gives water on demand for the jobs you have to do.  I use mine for watering hanging baskets of plants so I need at least a 26" or longer length for the wand which attaches to your garden hose.  Others may find this useful if they are watering large groups of seedlings or plants in the ground or a greenhouse.

    Hand Trowel
    These are great for digging holes for bulbs and seedlings.  I mention it as now you can get ergonomic ones that are built to allow your stronger arm muscles to do the work. With arthritis in my fingers, palms, and wrist, this is now a prerequisite.

    Dutch Hoe
    These apparently came from Holland and have found their place in many gardeners' tool kits and hearts.  Mine is long-handled and it makes quick work of clearing weeds from garden beds without bending over all the time. Its blade is double-sided so you can push it under the stem of the weed, or pull it from the opposite side of the weed.  Simply put, it cuts on both the forward and backward strokes, slicing off weeds just below the surface of the soil. The blade is held to the handle with prongs on each end of the blade portion making it easy to see your weeds and plants and avoid damaging the plants you want to keep. It is commonly believed that if you cut off the head of a weed, it will be less likely to regrow given you are depriving its roots of sunlight.  Pulling weeds used to be more common for me but if the plant has runners underground, then pulling them just excites the roots to grow even more!  And my back appreciates this easier way to remove weeds in the garden.

    Weed torch
    This is another must-have for making light work of weeds that are growing in between patio stones, interlocking stones, or cracks in your driveway or sidewalks.  Do not use this near the lawn as some weeds have roots underground and you don’t want to start a lawn fire!  It looks rather like a long cane and on the handle behind where you hold it, you attach a small portable propane tank.  Mine has a simple button that lights the torch at the “ground” end of the cane – much like a BBQ lighter. Then you simply burn off the heads of those pesky weeds.  A very satisfying way to remove weeds.  Be sure you wear good protective shoes when you do this!  There is an alternate version for which you need to light at the base of the cane with a BBQ lighter.  You may like that one but I am leery of burning myself while bending over to light it. Mine has the starter button on the handle so keeps me, by hair and my fingers away from the flame.

    Hose Guides
    Why do I want these?  I have a pool and every week from mid-May to mid-October I need to add water to the pool.  Yes, the water evaporates! The garden hose hooks to the side of the house about 50 feet from the pool.  So, I drag the hose out to the pool every week, add the water which takes an hour or so, then I drag the hose back again.  A lot of repetitive work that I should be able to reduce!

    I want to get a shorter hose from the outdoor water hook-up to the fence and then up and across the top of the fence and its gate to the portion that then travels towards the pool. At that point is where I'd hook up that hose to the current longer hose so it would go all the way to pull along the fence. I’d place the older hose in these nifty hose guides every 8 to 10 feet or so.  When I get to the pool near the spot where I want the hose to go into the pool, then I'd add one or two more guides to ensure the hose stayed put and leave the hose coiled with enough length to go across the pool deck and 4 to 6 feet into the pool. 

    Maybe I’d even place a small hose reel in the garden near the pool deck to store the end of the hose when it is not in the pool.  Once done, then each week, I can walk out to the pool, place the end of the hose into the pool then walk back to the house and turn on the water.  Later I just have to go and turn off the water! Maybe I can even leave the hose in the pool most of the time!  Much easier. 

    I’ll likely change the attachment at the side of the house to one that can accommodate 2 hoses at once – a hose splitter.  Or I may add the splitter on the other side of the fence in the backyard.  Or both!! So exciting to consider! This would allow me to feed the hose to the pool but also to attach another hose for other backyard or front yard usage.

    If you have a favourite tool for gardening or lawn care, please let me know by emailing gardeningtipsrhghs@gmail.com! Thank you!

    Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

    Photos by Doreen using SnagIt from the Canadian Tire and Lee Valley websites.

  • April 22, 2022 9:00 AM | Anonymous member (Administrator)

    This week, I simply want to direct you to a solid guide for vegetable gardening for those new to gardening.  It goes through each step providing easy to follow, read, and understand information which makes it easier to decide what, where, and how to plant your garden.  And this weekend isn’t too late to start a few seedlings indoors.  If you prefer, simply read the article and prepare a list of the seeds and seedlings you’ll buy to plant outdoors starting May 21st or the following weekend.  

    You can buy seeds and vegetable seedlings at many big box stores and nurseries. Or join our Society’s Spring Plant Sale on May 7th at the McConaghy Centre where there will be lots of seedlings for tomatoes, green peppers and other veggies and herbs. 

    For the Beginner’s Guide, I’ve provided a link to go to the Old Farmer’s Almanac website and read how to start your new vegetable garden.  To read, prepare and start your veggie garden! Use this link.

    Submitted by Doreen Coyne, a member of the Richmond Hill Garden & Horticultural Society

Member of the Ontario Horticultural Association

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